Full spectrum lighting allows an aquarium hobbyist to grow aquatic plants of all lighting requirements, and using LED bulbs makes the light’s affect on the water temperature as minimal as possible. LED lighting is expensive relative to other types of aquarium lighting – such as using florescent tubes. However, by building the LED lighting unit yourself using materials commonly found at hardware stores, you can keep costs at a minimum. Full spectrum, low-heat lighting can also be viewed as an investment, since it is the healthiest option for expensive aquarium plants and animals.
Instructions
1
Divide the LEDs into columns and rows so they’re evenly distributed and in the same shape as the heat sink. Measure out and mark a grid onto the heat sink with the number of columns and rows you’ve decided on, making sure that you’re providing for at least 1 inch of space between every LED.
2
Mix a small portion of the epoxy. Apply a thin coat of the epoxy to the back of an LED and at the line intersection on the grid where you’d like to mount it. Arrange the LED so its negative terminals point directly toward the positive terminal of the LEDs to the right and left of it on the row beneath it (or vice versa, with the positive terminal at the top and the negative terminals on the second row – it doesn’t matter, as long as opposite-charge terminals point toward each other); this will lead to easier wire connection and soldering. Press the LED onto the intersection and allow it to dry for five minutes. Continue mounting the LEDs until all are mounted, mixing more epoxy as needed.
3.Measure the distance between the bottom right connection of the LED star in the top left hand corner of the heat sink and the upper left connector of the LED star one column to the right and one row below the first LED star. Cut the wire to that length. Strip the ends of the wire – you should strip 1/4 inch or less of the insulation. Heat the wire on the soldering iron by pressing an exposed end of the wire to the tip of the soldering iron, for approximately five to 15 seconds (the wire will smoke when it’s pressed). Press the soldering iron to the upper LED star at its bottom right terminal – apply the solder and heat the terminal until the terminal shines. Press the heated wire end to the heated terminal and wait a few seconds until they’re soldered together. Continue to connect the LED stars in a zigzag pattern (the second column second row LED will connect to the first column third row LED, for example) until all lights are connected.
4
Solder the wire that connects to a string of 12 or more LEDs to the narrow part of the Leviton plug. Solder the blue wire from the plug’s power supply to the wide part of the plug. Solder the power supply’s black wire to a negative terminal on the first LED in the string. Check that all your connections are secure. Snap the LED's optics into the mounts. Plug in the lighting unit to check that all the LEDs are turning on.
5
Flip the heat sink over and lay it on a soft surface (such as a blanket or towel). Arrange the corner braces so that one is at each corner of the heat sink and two are near the middle of each of the long sides of the heat sink – each corner brace should be directly across from another corner brace. Place an aluminum strip so it runs across the heat sink and connects with a corner brace on either side. Attach the braces and aluminum strips using self-tapping metal screws (three screws should be used on each corner brace – one to connect it to the side of the heat sink and two at the top of the heat sink). Arrange the power supplies and any other parts of the wiring system on top of the heat sink, making sure the plugs are still free to extend away from the heat sink, and affix as necessary. Mount the heat sink over the tank as desired.
Tips & Warnings
Super glue is harmful to LEDs, so don’t use any as epoxy.
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